Hugel means "mound" or "hill" in German and a hugelkultur or hugelbed is exactly that; a clever mound perfect for cultivating in. Wood and branches make up the base of this mound, and as they break down, they provide long-term nourishment for the plants. During the composting process, microorganisms such as decomposing fungi, earthworms, and insects benefit, releasing nutrients to the plants, and the microorganisms generate heat, creating a more consistent growing climate. As if this weren't enough, cultivation is water-saving as the decaying tree acts as a water reservoir. Therefore, the method is particularly practical in dry areas or during periods of drought.
How do I create a hugelkultur?
There are different varieties of hugelbed, but all are built on a base of large branches.
The insulation material is placed on cardboard or in a buried trench to prevent weeds, approximately 40 centimeters deep. Finer twigs are placed on top.
Then a thicker layer of organic material such as compost, old plants, leaves, grass clippings, straw, vegetable scraps, manure or similar is added - depending on what is available. You can also add the soil you excavated earlier.
At the very top, a 5-10 centimeter deep layer of topsoil is placed. The idea is that the underlying layers should have decomposed slightly by the time the plant roots finally reach them.
In order to keep the decomposition process going, you should occasionally add new organic material, such as compost, grass, leaves, or similar.
What types of trees work best?
You can use materials from a variety of tree species, but coniferous trees should be used in moderation as they make the soil acidic. Apple, ash, poplar, oak, willow, and maple are examples of tree species that are suitable. By using different tree species in various stages of decomposition, you will achieve a steady and long-lasting supply of nutrients. The coarser the wood material you use, the longer the bed will last. If you use fresh wood, a lot of nitrogen will be used up in the decomposition process initially, so you will need to compensate by fertilizing more. Cedar, locust, black cherry, black walnut, and treated wood should be avoided altogether, as they contain substances that can negatively affect other plants.
The form of cultivation
A raised bed should have a slope so that rainwater can run down along the sides before reaching the core. Otherwise, there are no rules for how the bed should be shaped; it can be straight, winding, long or short. A width of about 120 cm is practical - then you can reach the plants on both sides when you work.
Location
Since the flowerbed becomes best after a couple of years of decomposition, it is important that it is not moved - therefore, think carefully about the location. It is best if the flowerbed is located in the sun, so that none of the sides are constantly in shadow. Also make sure that the flowerbed does not end up in a depression where it can get flooded.
Patience is a virtue, and this also applies when creating a hugelkultur bed. Don't be disappointed if your cultivation doesn't yield maximum crops in the first few years - just like with cover cropping, it may take some time before the conditions are right, that is until decomposition has progressed and microorganisms have established themselves. But then the hugelkultur bed gives back a lot. You'll save a lot of watering and fertilizing, and the plants will thrive. In addition, you'll benefit from a multitude of beneficial microorganisms that will help you with worry-free cultivation for a long time to come.